BRER RABBIT

Molasses has a long history before the cowboys drove the first herds of cattle of early Texas to New Orleans.  In 1857, Cowboy J. M. Cowley of Fentress, Texas stated, "We had to go to the Brazos River to buy corn for cornbread.  Beef, Cornbread, Molasses and Coffee was the principal diet in those days, and it was a wholesome diet."  Chuckwagon cooks enriched the many staples sweetening the taste using the thick rich syrup, molasses. 

Brer Rabbit Molasses and Syrups today, continue to give that great taste for sweetening many recipes. Sometimes enjoyed  just by adding directly on waffles, pancakes and even one of my favorite breads, Pan De Campo.  Just as the chuckwagon cooks did years past on those cattle drive.   Brer Rabbit, much like the Cowboy has an interesting history in both American literature and as an emblem for a syrup business dating back a hundred years.   

Pan De Campo smothered in Brer Rabbit Syrup with Coffee photo Credit: Wayne Hanselka

The emblem Hare often a trickster succeeding by wits, though not always successful, are the efforts of Br'er Rabbit and the many stories making him a folk hero. The character used not only for the fine molasses and syrups, but also in many Disney movies and books, including the stories written down by Robert Roosevelt, uncle to President Theodore Roosevelt, publishing them in Harper's, where they fell flat. This was a good many years before a genius arose who, in 'Uncle Remus', made the stories immortal with the fictional Tar-Baby in the second of the Uncle Remus stories published in 1881 along with folklorist Alcée Fortier in southern Louisiana, where the Rabbit character was known as Compair Lapin in Creole French. Enid Blyton, an English writer of children's fiction, retold the stories along with the writings of Joel Chandler Harris, as well ethnologist for the Smithsonian Institute, John R. Swanton, who traces the origins of br'er Rabbit back to cultural heritage and stories of early Native American tribes of Creek Indians and Cherokees along with early enslave Africans. 

Br'er Rabbit and Tar Baby

Author, Jace Weaver, "That the People Might Live: Native American Literatures and Native American Community" traces the relationship further about the great hare, Br'er Rabbit which the stories originated mostly in Cherokee myths.  These stories past down around camp fires, heard my early Anglo settlers who migrated to North America from Europe and again past through the generation before becoming the great tales of the interesting Hare.

Today, the Brer Rabbit label continues sales through B&G Foods, Inc who purchased the name from Nabisco, Inc in 1997. Although the roots long begin before the 20th century with Penford Corporation of 1896 that moved to Harvey, Louisiana. The monopoly of Corn Products Refining Company (CPR) acquired 25 percent interest in Penick molasses and corn syrup trade.

However, in 1913, under Teddy Roosevelt’s trust busting campaign, the Supreme Court decision force CPR to divest its interest in Penick and Ford. This interest was bought by F.T. Bedford, the son of CPR’s E.T. Bedford in which the son had a falling out with his father desiring to be in business on his own. Instrumental while working with his father, F.T. Bedford was largely responsible for developing Karo and Mazola brands before forming his own business an created the Br'er Rabbit Label. An act of Teddy Roosevelt's trade busting, who's Uncle created such great stories of the witty Rabbit would only be appropriate to rebel against the former Syrup empire an once more, see the rabbit out smart the fox. 

I have to extend some thanks to Calvin Wayne Hanselka, who made that great Pan De Campo Breakfast smothered under the covering of Brer Rabbit "Full Flavor" Syrup and remembering the great tales from the Uncle Remus stories.

Pan De Campo Bread made in a Cast Iron Dutch Oven

 I was honored to meet Calvin "Wayne" Hanselka during the King ranch Hand Breakfast while I was working on the chuckwagon making the fabulous bread that Cowboys enjoyed during the days of the trail drives.  It became the official "Bread of Texas" in 200 .   Here's the RECIPE  for making Pan De Campo.

Cowboy Cook Roger Edison, (left)  with Dr. Hanselka, PhD Texas A&M (standing right) at King Ranch in 2012.  Dr. Hanselka specialized in Ranch Management, Natural Resource, and Cultural Resource Management information.  He conducted Consulting, teaching, planning and active management for land managers in both the United States and Mexico.  

BRER RABBIT ADVERTISEMENT 1948

 

 

 

The word, "Molasses" comes from the Portuguese word, (melaco), which derived from the latin word, (Mel) meaning honey.   Molasses in made through refining sugarcane, though is also made from Grapes in many countries of the Middle East and also from Sugar Beets.  Although Sweet Sorghum, often marketed as molasses in not a true molasses.  

When Columbus discovered what would become the Americas, he brought with him sugarcane to the new world. Although, Sugarcane originates in New Guinea where it has been known since around 6000 BC.  It's cultivation gradually spread into migration routes reaching Southeast Asia, India and the South Pacific about 1000 BC.  

Arab trade routes into Asia, would further spread the crop into Egypt during the Arab conquest of 640 AD.  As they advanced further into areas of the Mediterranean, the sugan cane would continue to spread eventually into Syria, Cyprus, Crete and reaching Spain around 715 AD.  

The trade of sugar cane would be introduce to Madeira and soon reaching the the Azores, West Africa and the Canary Islands around 1420.  As Columbus began his first explorations to the New World, he would take sugar cane from the Canary Islands where he resupplied the Gulf of Arrows which he named such due to meeting the only hostile Indians during his first of four voyages which present violent resistance and use of arrows by the Ciguayos Indians. Today, the location called the Bay of Rincon in Samana, Dominican Republic.  By 1520, Spanish explorations would spread the crop to both central and South America eventually reaching north America through Bristish and French trade.

To make molasses, harvested sugar cane is stripped from its leaves, then cut, crushed and mashed to extract the juices from the plant. The juice is boiled into a concentrate which promotes the crystallization of sugar. This molasses has the highest amount of sugar content due to little amounts of sugar has been removed.  The second boiling again removes more sugar though crystallizing and has a bitter tinge to its taste.  Upon the third boiling, this yields the finest syrup called "Blackstrap" Molasses.  A term that is solely Americanism dating just after the turn of the 20th century. 

Since the majority of sucrose has been removed from the original first two boilings, Blackstrap Molasses today is often marketed for its high energy and sold as a health supplement having a great source of calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium in addition to traces amounts of vitamins and other minerals. One tablespoon per day provides 20 percent of the daily value of those nutrients.  

Molasses is also used for making Rum, ethyl alcohol, cattle feed supplements, dark beers such as Stout and Porters. It is also through chemistry mixed with various chemical agents for de-icing, rust removal and as an alternative fuel source for automobiles.  

Although, I enjoy using molasses when cooking from baking needs to BBQ rubs.  I often even use it to make Brown Sugar which is combining  1 cup of granulated cane sugar to 1 tablespoon of  molasses.  Simple mix in a bowl using a wood spoon until completely blended, then store in an air tight container. It yields one cup and if you desire an even darker, richer brown sugar, add an additional tablespoon of the molasses.  You will enjoy the many different recipes which molasses will truly enhance and Brer Rabbit is a name that has been with us nearly a hundred years.

ESSAY Contest Winner - Heads to Chuckwagon Cooking School

Jessica Probert

Story by Roger Edison

Kent and Shannon Rollins operate one of the most unique, as well, one of a kind culinary schools in the nation. Each spring and fall, they hold their semi annual Chuck Wagon Cooking School at the Red River Ranch in Byers, Texas. The school teaches students the culinary art of cowboy cooking using cast iron dutch ovens, all in an authentic setting working from a restored 1876 Studebaker wagon. Sourdough biscuits, baking pie crust and brewing up that rich taste of strong cowboy coffee are all part of Kent's school where cooks learn how to cook just as they did for the wranglers who herded cattle along the trail drives over 140 years ago. 

Kent's accomplishments for his culinary talent has earned him numerous awards including the uncontested title as the Official Chuck Wagon Cook of Oklahoma, given to him by the Oklahoma state Governor. He also won the Chuck wagon Cook-Off Championship at the National Cowboy Symposium Celebration held in Lubbock, Texas and the Will Rogers Award for Chuck Wagon of the Year by the Academy of Western Artists. Featured on QVC, PBS, The Food Network's "Roker on the Road" and "Throw-Down with Bobby Flay." Kent entertains with a passion as both a modern day cowboy, story teller and one of the nations finest cooks. 

Recently, the Rollins offered a Contest for a scholarship to attend their cooking school. The rules were simple. Submit a 500 word essay explaining, "Why you want to attend Chuck Wagon Cooking School." Within days of posting the contest, Essay's from contestants flooded the Red River Ranch Chuck Wagon mail from across the nation.

Filtering through all the entries, they sorted each into piles. As Kent and Sharron searched for the finalist, it wasn't difficult deciding the winner after reading an entry submitted by Jessica Probert of Vale, Oregon. 

“When college age kids reach the last few semesters of their schooling they start hinting to their parents about wanting cars and such as graduation gifts. I asked my parents for a chuck wagon. I attend culinary school in Idaho, but one skill they fail to teach are Dutch oven and cowboy cooking.” 

Jessica is a true cowgirl who currently works ranching while attending school where she recently transferred into the Culinary Arts program with College of Western Idaho located in Nampa, ID. She had previously been working towards a major in Early Childhood Development and Education just under three years at the University of Idaho when she realized her love of the western lifestyle and cooking is her dream. Jessica stated, "I decided that I just couldn't be a teacher for the rest of my life and wanted to perform a career I already enjoy doing."

Her parents, Dan and Suzy Probert, own and operate the P-Ranch of Vale, Oregon. Although, Jessica explains not the historic P-Ranch once owned by Peter French listed in the National Registry of Historic Places. Dan Probert, originally from Enterprise, Oregon and Suzy is from San Juan Bautista, California where both grew up in a ranch environment. Twelve years ago, the couple move to Vale where today live on their Ranch working out of the office as Country Natural Beef runs the ranch.

"I have a huge passion for horses; it’s been passed down through my family," explains Jessica. Continuing, "My dad taught my brother Russell, who is currently 18 years old and myself, everything we know. I have been involved in rodeo for as long as I can remember and definitely love ranch rodeos. Team branding is my favorite event."

Jessica was also her hometown former Miss Rodeo Queen and has participate in many Rodeo events, entering Barrel Racing, Pole Bending, Breakaway Roping, Goat Tying and Team Roping. In High School, Jessica devoted her energy towards Team Roping along with her brother Russel qualifying for the Idaho High School State Finals in the Team Roping event. Both Jessica and her brother Russel are avid ropers and both raise the own Corriente Cattle with Hat Rack Cattle Company. 

Humble about her strong equestrian skills, Jessica brags about her brother Russel. "While we also both started out our own colts on the ranch, Russel just moved to California to attend college. He also works starting colts with cutting and reining. As much as it bugs me to admit, he is an amazing horseman who started and trained both my team roping horses. He also trained many of the other horses on my parents ranch. I am very proud of him."

"I have two goals," states Jessica. "First, I want to buy a chuckwagon so I can one day cater during the branding season of the ranch round-up. Brandings are always the best time of the year. For as long as I can remember, my mom has always stayed home making the needed meals during the spring brandings. Last year, we were so busy around the ranch with branding season, the ranch hired a Mexican restaurant to cater for the crew." 

"Second, I want to show people outside our circle of ranching, how real “cookies” fed their crews. Attending the chuck wagon school, I hope to gain as much knowledge from Kent while I am in Texas, so I can return with the extra skills and start cooking during the branding. That would help give my mother a break she well deserves," comments Jessica. 

Jessica is not only influenced by her mom when it comes to cooking but from one of her most admired cowboys, her grandfather known as Papa Jim. "My grandpa, Papa Jim, was amazing cooking his legendary pit BBQ. That's where you season the meat, then wrap in foil and place inside a wet gunny sack tied up. Then bury it in an underground pit to cook. It is absolutely the best! He taught this skill to my Uncle Jim, my Dad and also to my Aunt Carol who each now master making pit barbecue. Unfortunately, Papa Jim passed away last July. He cooked at the Joseph, Oregon Mule Days for many years and even won a buckle for being such a master pit barbecue chef. Recently, at a cousins wedding, and again at the Mule Days, my Dad, my Aunt, and Uncle cooked Papa Jim's legendary Pit Barbecue keeping his traditions alive." 

Asking Jessica what her parents thought about her getting a chuckwagon, she commented, "I think my parents thought I was joking. I think they may be coming around to the fact that I am serious about getting a chuckwagon and a team. When I told them I had won the essay contest and was going to be headed to Texas in March, their reaction and looks were priceless. They both are extremely supportive of everything I decide to pursue in life." 

Jessica confesses, she loves the food channel and while her favorite television show is CHOP, she enjoys viewing the many cuisines, ideas and techniques shown on the many shows. Jessica will attend Kent Rollins Chuck Wagon Cooking School at the end of March 2012 just in time to take her new skills home to Oregon in time to treat the cowboys to some wholesome food during this years brandings. For more information about the Chuck Wagon Cooking School, contact Red River Ranch at www.kentrollins.com

Jessica working Branding Season

Jessica Probert Miss Rodeo

CHAMPION of the Dutch Oven

Omar Alvarez never imagined competing in a Dutch Oven Cooking Competition. By shear chance, he stumbled across a 4th of July Cooking-Off being held in Burley, Idaho, hosted by the International Dutch Oven Society.  As he viewed the competing cooks stirring ingredients into the large cast iron cookware, Omar reflected to his childhood memories, thinking, "I can do that."

Growing up in Kingsville, Texas, Omar remembered the "Cocineros,"  Spanish for Cook, who fed the working cowboys of KING Ranch.  The ranch legacy is deep rooted into his ancestry through the first Vaqueros.  Captain Richard King rode south from drought suffering Texas in search for good cattle. Arriving at the heart of Mexico in state of Tamaulipas, he found the people of Cruillas in such dire straits, they were willing to sell all their cattle in an attempt to survive the drought.  As Capt. King drove the herd north back to Texas, he soon realized,  that in solving an immediate problem for the townspeople, he had simultaneously removed their long-term means of livelihood. King turned his horse back towards the town to offer a proposal for these people. He would provide them with food, shelter and an income if they would move and come work on his ranch. The townspeople conferred and many of them agreed to move north with Captain King. These Mexican Vaqueros were already expert horseman and herders. Their resilient denizens of the rugged Mexican range became known as as Los Kineños – King's people.

Tortilla

Tortilla - in Spanish means "little cake" although, the Tortilla is one of the oldest known foods to the civilized world, dating back to 10,000 BC.  Anthropologist have found in 3000 BC that the Mesoamerican civilizations of the Mayans and the Aztecs did hybridized wild grasses that produce a large nutritious kernels we know as corn. 

Tortillas are made from corn meal (maize) or Wheat flour and used to serve with many different Mexican foods that have influenced Tex-Mex and Southwest cuisine.  Spanish explorer Hernan Cortes in 1519, arrived in what is today, Mexico.  He found the indigenous Mesoamericans natives had a sophisticated and flavorful cuisine based on native fruits, game, cultivated beans and corn and domesticated turkeys.

Traditionally grilled on earthenware utensils, they are used as bread that is often filled or stuffed.  The original Indian method of preparation consisted of kneading the cornmeal dough (masa) on a stone called a metate. Then the masa is shaped into a circle about 8 inches wide and 1/8th  inch thick.  The tortilla has become a common staple for Vaqueros and Cowboys and served with nearly every meal of Mexican, Tex-Mex or Southwest Cuisines:  

Tortilla Recipe: 

Pan De Campo Recipe:

Tortillas - Staple of  Cowboy Cooking

Pete Garcia working dough at King Ranch  photo by Roger Edison

The Kentucky Derby

It is a record crowd of fans at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky. People are crowding into the stands. Bid prospects as each reviews today’s favorites. Ladies draped in fashions fresh from Madison and Fifth Avenue. Large brim hats adorn their heads. Each hat colorfully flocked with flowers, lace and feathers. Men in wool suites of upper class privileged aristocracy. The announcer begins to introducing today’s contestant three year old thoroughbreds.